Lock grades are set by ANSI/BHMA and run from Grade 1 (strongest) to Grade 3 (basic). Grade 1 is commercial standard, Grade 2 is the sensible residential choice, and Grade 3 is what most builders fit by default. Moving from Grade 3 to Grade 2 is the single biggest hardware improvement most homes can make.
If you have never checked what grade your locks are, they are almost certainly Grade 3. Builders fit to price, and the lock is one of the easiest places to save twenty dollars a door. Knowing the difference tells you whether an upgrade is worth it on your particular door.
What do the grades actually measure?
The grading is not marketing. Locks are tested to defined standards for how many open-and-close cycles they survive, how much force the bolt takes, and how they hold up to strikes on the lock and door. A higher grade means the lock survived a harder version of each test.
Grade 1 vs Grade 2 vs Grade 3
| Grade 1 | Grade 2 | Grade 3 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Intended use | Commercial | Heavy residential | Basic residential |
| Relative durability | Highest | Middle | Lowest |
| Force resistance | Highest | Good | Basic |
| Typical cost | Highest | Moderate | Lowest |
| Usually found on | Offices, retail, apartments | Upgraded homes | Builder-fitted doors |
| Worth it for a front door? | If budget allows | Yes, for most homes | Only as a starting point |
Which grade do you need?
- Front and back doors: Grade 2 as a minimum. Grade 1 if the door is street-facing and unobserved.
- Side and garage doors: Grade 2. These are often the weakest entry point and get the cheapest lock.
- Interior doors: Grade 3 is fine. These are for privacy, not security.
- Rental property: Grade 2, because it survives more tenant turnovers before it wears out.
- Commercial premises: Grade 1, and usually required by insurance anyway.
How do I find out what grade I have?
Check the packaging if you still have it, or look for a grade marking on the lock body or the strike. If there is no marking at all, assume Grade 3. Manufacturers do not hide a Grade 1 rating — they print it on the box.
Another rough test: pick up the deadbolt in a shop. Grade 1 hardware is noticeably heavier. The weight is real metal where a Grade 3 has thinner castings and more plastic internals.
The part the grade does not cover
A Grade 1 deadbolt fitted with the half-inch screws that came in the box, into a jamb that is not reinforced, will fail as fast as a Grade 3. The grade rates the lock, not your door frame.
Before spending on a grade upgrade, spend thirty dollars on three-inch screws through the strike into the wall stud and a reinforcement plate. Then upgrade the lock. In that order.
Grades and salt air in Kenner
Grade ratings test durability but not corrosion in a lakefront climate. On homes near Laketown and the lakefront, finish quality matters alongside grade — a Grade 2 lock with a solid brass or stainless finish will outlast a Grade 1 with a cheap plated coating that pits after two summers.
Do smart locks have grades too?
Yes, and it is worth checking. Plenty of smart locks are Grade 3 mechanically while being marketed heavily on their electronics. Compare the grade, not the app. See our smart lock vs deadbolt comparison.
Want to know what you have?
Tell us the brand and what the door is, and we will tell you what grade you are likely on and whether upgrading is worth it for that particular door. Sometimes it is not. More background in our guide to lock types, deadbolts and high-security locks.